11.11.08

OooOOOooh, Third World, boogity boogity boogity

I started writing this on Remembrance Day (does that mean anything?) but then got distracted by friends going out for Thai food and then one thing led to another and another and all of a sudden it's exactly a week later and I'm in Córdoba.

So before I came to this crazy-go-awesome country, I got a lot of warnings, especially in respect to living in Buenos Aires. The main reason I'm in BA for 4 (instead of 8) weeks is because the volunteer work I had signed up for was in a "dangerous area" with a lot of violence and crime, etc etc. And I'm not saying they were wrong... at least about that. And there definitely is violence and crime but I feel that it just must not be directed in my direction. Although that said other people I have met have experienced being mugged or what-have-ye. But I feel like the closest I got to being robbed was having two guys on the street bargain me for money. First asking if I could give them a peso or two, then saying two pesos each, then asking for one more (5 pesos for a pizza), and then saying "5 or 10?" to which I responded "my limit is 5", as if I were an ATM telling a customer they were overdrawing their daily withdrawal limit.

My point is, I guess, that although Argentina is a third world country, and Buenos Aires is the capital of this third world country, I feel like these definitions can be misleading. Violence and crime is a problem, but only in certain areas and only for certain people. For a city where it was almost expected that I get mugged or pickpocketed at least once, as part of the experience, it is a very pleasant city with a lot of wonderful people who are willing to help me when I get lost. Interesting sidebar: it's considered rude here to just say "No sé (I dunno)" when someone asks you for directions, so people will give directions even if they do not know, just cuz they wanna help. Also interesting, when I was introduced to the kids at my volunteer placement, it was considered polite and mandatory for me to exchange un beso (a kiss) on the cheek, which is considered molestation back home.

So I'm sort of stuck here wondering... is it that things have changed/improved since my Argentine contacts have immigrated to Canada? Or is it just that I'm not seeing something that they know? Certainly, I do see the poverty, what with the people who were rifling through my residence's trash when I'd come out at night, or the little girls frowning and holding out their hands on the streets and in the subway stations, or the people sleeping on rugs or garbage bags in the middle of a crowded street, etc. But I wonder if maybe people overshot themselves with the violence. I am sure there are violent areas. I've steered clear of them at night. I went to La Boca to see a soccer game and eat and drink maté afterwards, but we left the area before sundown. And I never visited the suburbs I was warned about. But I can't help but wondering if this is the same as people warning me about the dangerous city of Halifax because they heard of stabbings in The Commons, or the dangerous city of Toronto because they heard a gunshot in Regent Park. I dunno...

Oh and by the way, Mom & Dad, apparently my residence was located in a dangerous dirty area of town, according to a porteño I met at a party. Ah well. Maybe I'll get mugged when I return to BA for a weekend next month. ¿Here's hoping?

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